A quality shirt is an essential item in any wardrobe. Whether you’re dressing for a formal occasion or just a casual outing a well-made shirt can elevate your style and stand the test of time. However, with countless options available on today’s market it can be challenging to determine which shirts offer true value. Instead of focusing solely on brand names or price tags, it’s important to pay attention to the finer details. In this guide, we’ll highlight the key features to look for when evaluating a shirt, helping you make an informed decision and invest in a piece that will last for years to come.
1. Pattern
If you are looking for a shirt with a striped or checked design, it’s easier to spot quality craftsmanship by checking how the patterns align across the seams. For instance, examine the placket (the double layer of fabric holding the buttons on the front), the yoke (the upper part around the shoulder area) and also where the sleeves meet the shoulders. If the patterns are properly matched across these key areas, it’s a good indication that the manufacturer has put effort into ensuring the shirt’s overall construction is of high quality.
2. Stitching
Stitch density is another key indicator of a garment’s quality. A high quality shirt typically has around 8 stitches per centimetre, while a lower quality shirt may have only 3-4 stitches per centimetre. However, this doesn’t always apply to summer shirts, as a higher stitch density can damage lightweight, delicate fabrics.
You should also check for stitch line consistency, particularly along the hem at the bottom of the shirt. Irregularities like wavy stitch lines or varying stitch densities are signs of poor sewing.
Additionally, a well-made shirt will feature single needle stitching. This is more time consuming but results in a cleaner, neater finish. In contrast, double needle stitching, which leaves two rows of stitching, can lead to puckering after multiple washes.
3. Buttons
Pay attention to the buttons. A button should never be sewn flat to the fabric, as this can make it difficult to button up and also cause puckering or splaying around the button hole. Instead, all shirts should have a bit of space underneath to create what is known as the ‘shank’ or the ‘neck’ of the button. A 2.5mm shank is ideal.
To prevent the button from falling off the shirt, the shank should also be wrapped, which secures the main sewing threads and stops them from unravelling. The best way to ensure a button stays securely attached is by using heat sealed button wrapping thread. This fuses together with heat, creating a strong, everlasting bond. Some shirts use cotton thread for wrapping, but this looks messy and can come undone overtime just like your shoe lace. By inspecting the underside of the button, you can identify which method of wrapping was used. If the shank is neat, tidy and has colour matching thread, it’s a sign that the shirt has been well made.
4. Buttonholes
A buttonhole is a reinforced opening in the fabric that allows the button to pass through and secure two pieces of fabric together. The perfect buttonhole features a high stitch density with clean, smooth edges and no fraying. While most buttonholes are machine made, hand stitched buttonholes can be found on high-end bespoke shirts. Although hand-stitched buttonholes may have slight irregularities, they reflect the craftsmanship and time invested in creating such a shirt.
5. Sleeves
A low-end shirt often features larger armholes, designed for a one-size-fits-all approach, which helps reducing manufacturing and stockholding costs. Meanwhile, high-end shirts offer a more carefully considered range of sizes to ensure a tailored, perfect fit.
6. Fabric
To assess the quality of cotton, inspect closely. High quality cotton features thin, dense threads with well-defined ridges and grooves that catch the light giving the fabric a soft lustre. Poor quality cotton on the other hand appears fuzzier, with blurred ridges and grooves due to looser, hairier threads. A quality fabric should also feel soft to the touch. The best way to test this is by trying the shirt on – the fabric should follow your moves and not feel stiff or restrictive.
For more information, don’t hesitate to give us a call or reach out via the contact form. While MMS specialises in button wrapping machines and heat sealing thread, we are passionate about all aspects of garment manufacturing and are always happy to assist.